Street Smart - January/February - 2018

Toyota/Lexus U880E: Beyond the Valve Body

The Toyota/Lexus U880E was first introduced in the 2013 Lexus RX350 sport. Since then it’s become quite popular; BMW began using it in 2015 under the name GA8F22AW. GM started using in 2016 as the 8F45. And it started showing up in Volvo in 2014 as their TG-81SC.

These transaxles have been on the road for about five years now and are getting a lot of miles on them. With all the different manufacturers using this transaxle, there’s no doubt you’ll be seeing it in your shop before long.

In the December issue of GEARS, we covered the valve body from a 2015 Lexus RX350 sport with a 3.5-liter engine. We identified bolt locations, check valves, solenoids, valves and springs, and covered a few assembly tips.

In this issue, we’re going beyond the valve body, to look through the unit itself.

With the unit out of the car and on the bench, remove the eight bolts that hold the valve body in place (figure 2). We’ve identified the bolt locations and lengths, along with the bolt torque for reassembly.

With the valve body removed, you now have access to air check the components (figure 3). When air checking, regulate your air pressure to about 30 PSI. That’ll give you a better idea whether there’s a leak or not.

Remove the NC3 and NT speed sensors (figure 3) from transaxle to prevent damage.

Remove the bolts to split the case halves (figure 4). Once again, we’ve identified bolt lengths and locations, with bolt torque for reassembly. Knowing which bolts to remove makes this unit pretty easy to work on.

Once you have the bell-housing side of the case removed, you’ll be able to reach the pump and internals for disassembly.

Remove the seven bolts for the pump (figure 5). The pump will lift out with the filter attached (figure 6). Notice the different torque for the two filter bolts. Be careful not to over-torque the filter bolts; the filter is plastic and can crack.

After removing the ten pump bolts and two filter bolts, the pump will come apart. There isn’t much to the pump: The pump gear ID marks face up when the gears are in place in the pump cover (figure 7).

With the pump removed, everything down to the support will just lift out. As you remove the input shaft, the front planetary gear assembly and the C-3 and C-4 clutch drums will lift out with it (figure 8).

Remove the C-3 and C-4 clutches from the input planetary; remove both clutch packs from the drum (figure 9). We’ve provided the clutch clearances for reassembly.

Next, remove the C-4 balance piston, return spring assembly, and C-4 clutch piston (figure 10).

You won’t be able to remove the C-3 piston assembly right now: It’s held in with 32 rivets (figure 11). For now, the only way to service the C-3 apply piston is to replace the drum. A replaceable piston is in the works from the aftermarket.

Inspect the front planetary gear assembly and notice the location of bearing races (figure 12). The B-1 band will come right out (figure 13).

Remove the front planetary ring gear. This will let you lift the C-1 clutch drum out, and then the input sun gear drum will lift out.

Figure 14 shows how to assemble the C-1 clutch apply piston and balance piston, and provides clutch clearance you’ll need during assembly.

This takes us to the front planetary gear subassembly that bolts into the case.

That’s it for this issue, going beyond the valve body. We’ll continue with part two in the next issue of GEARS. Keep your eyes open for it, ’cause that’s not just smart… that’s street smart!