Tales From the Bench |  October/November - 2018

Saving Some Dollars: Rebuilding 62TE Solenoid Packs

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The Dodge 62TE solenoid pack is expensive to replace; too expensive to replace on every rebuild. But are you replacing them because they’re bad or just because it’s an electrical part?

A few questions you should ask yourself when replacing this solenoid pack:

How many miles are on the transmission? If the car has 150,000 miles or more, replace the solenoid.

What was the transmission failure? If you have a pressure problem with many burnt components, replace the solenoid pack.

If the common drum has sealing ring issues, don’t automatically replace the solenoids. If there’s a planet or hard part failure, don’t assume the solenoid pack needs to be replaced. If you have a comeback because of a part or converter failure, don’t assume you need to replace the solenoid pack.

Rebuilding and cleaning the solenoid pack isn’t for everyone. If you’d like to save some money by investing a small amount of time cleaning and testing the solenoid pack, or if you have a solenoid code and want to verify whether the solenoid is faulty or not, this article is for you.


The first thing to do is to check the resistance of the solenoids, pressure switch resisters, and the temperature sensor at the case connector (figure 1). Pin number 10 is the main power pin, so do all your resistance checks with one lead on pin 10, then use the chart (figure 2) to test the component you want. The only exception is for the temperature sensor; for that, use pins 22 and 23.

All solenoids should have 1.8 ohms resistance, except the line pressure solenoid, which is 4.9 ohms. The pressure switch resisters should measure around 300 ohms.


To disassemble the solenoid pack (figure 3):

  • Take out the six T25 Torx or T20 Torx bolts and remove the metal top.
  • Remove the six spacers and five pressure switch springs with a magnet.
  • Pry the black plastic housing off the solenoid pack base.
  • Flip the black housing over and remove the five pressure switch assemblies. There’s a metal cap, cup seal, and brass contact for each switch.
  • Remove the six rubber spacers on each of the solenoids.
  • Using a 90º pick, gently pry up each solenoid and remove it. Take note of the location of the two solenoids that have the ink marks on them.
  • Remove the line pressure solenoid by pressing out the two retainer rods from the bottom with a paper clip.


Use the graphic (figure 4) for the locations for each solenoid. If your resistance check fails or you have a code for a solenoid, you can easily replace the solenoid using one from a spare solenoid pack. The RFE solenoids with the white and gray connectors are the same and can be used for parts.

There are two normally open solenoids for the 2/4 and underdrive solenoid locations. You can ID them by paint marks on the solenoids. They may come with white, yellow and black paint markings.

Sometimes, when washing the solenoids in solvent, the ink marks come off. Don’t worry; it’s easy to figure out which ones are normally open: Just blow in the tip of the solenoid and air should come out the side (figure 5).

The Low/Reverse, Low, Overdrive and Direct solenoids are normally closed solenoids. When you blow air into the tip of the solenoid, no air should come out the side.

There’s no rebuild kit specifically for this solenoid pack, but the solenoid rebuild kit for the 545RFE solenoid pack will work. The base screen, O-rings, and pressure switches are all the same. The only parts you won’t get are the O-rings for the line pressure solenoid. But it’s almost never an issue to skip replacing the line pressure solenoid O-rings.


  • Change the O-rings on the solenoids, and lube and install them into the solenoid base. Make sure the two, normally open solenoids are in the correct locations. And make sure the solenoid connector tabs are aligned correctly for the top to go on (figure 6).
  • Install the line pressure solenoid and the two retaining pins.
  • Install the six rubber spacers on top of the solenoids.
  • Install the five pressure switches (figure 7). The brass contact goes in with the spring cup down. The pressure switch cup seal installs with the flat part toward the brass contact. Then install the metal cap. Never use transmission assembly gel on the pressure switches because it may set pressure switch codes until it melts.
  • Install the black top onto the solenoids. The best way of doing this without the pressure switches falling out is to tip the assembly on its side.
  • Install the six steel spacers.
  • Install the five pressure switch springs.
  • Install the top steel plate and torque the six bolts to 50in/lbs.

That’s it for repairing the 62TE solenoid block. This whole process takes no more than fifteen minutes.

This technique will let you save a lot of money and repair the solenoid pack, or you can use the information to confirm a solenoid code before replacing the expensive solenoid pack.

Always keep an open mind to new ideas, and keep changing with the fast-paced technology and your business will grow.